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All about watering your lawn

I try and educate as many people as I can about this topic. It is probably one of the most important items in this list to pay attention to. To maintain a healthy lawn you need to make sure it gets adequate hydration. Your lawn needs 2 inches of water per week. This may increase to 2 inches of water twice per week in hotter climates or drought seasons. By getting down into the soil 2 inches you’ll promote great root structure for your turf (I may refer to your lawn as turf from time to time). By just dampening the soil or watering your lawn everyday a little bit will only allow the water to just penetrate the soil. This will make for a very shallow root system…exactly what you do not want. Shallow root systems will be susceptible to drought die back, lawn tearing (from your mower or heavy traffic) and insects will be able to mow through your lawn in record timing.

‘Well Richard, when is the best time to water your lawn’

Just before dawn is the best time to water your lawn. This gives your lawn plenty of time to dry during the day. You want to maximize the amount of water consistent with good growth but with the least amount of surface wetness.

How do you know if you watered 2 inches?

Well the easiest way to tell (not the most accurate, but it is a good way to get an idea) is to lay out a few containers and turn on your irrigation / sprinklers. When you have about 2 inches of water in the container, then you could assume that you have watered 2 inches into the ground. You can also get a water meter that will attach to you water tap and you can monitor the amount of water that goes out. Or perhaps the best and most accurate way is to take soil sample plugs in a few different locations and visually see how far down the moisture is going.

Whats wrong with watering everyday?

Well not only is it a waste of water and money, another good reason too much water can be harmful to your lawn is that it creates a perfect environment for pests and diseases. A healthy lawn needs to become dry between waterings as well. Turf that is allowed to dry will send roots further down into the soil to find new moisture.

Now of course there are exceptions to everything. Golf courses water just about everyday (weather permitting), but they use a very different soil structure then your lawn at home. If your soil for your lawn is compacted you may experience water runoff or pooling. Therefore, your lawn will not absorb the water it will most likely evaporate. In this case it is time to aerate…but that is a different article.

Cheers,

Irrigation and How to Conserve Water

Irrigation and How to Conserve Water
By: Lou Manfredini

In today’s changing world, many of us are beginning to think more about how much water we use on a daily basis. I’m Lou Manfredini, Ace’s “Helpful Hardware Man” and here are some tips on how to conserve water in your lawn and garden.

The Lawn

I think the biggest mistake that most people make is overwatering. Overwatering not only wastes water, but it is bad for your plants. It really depends on where you live and the weather, but the general rule is to give anywhere from 1 to 2 inches of water a week to your lawn. You can measure the amount of water you give by the length of time that you run a sprinkler. Most sprinklers will give you that conversion information on their packaging, but you can also attach a water timer to your spigot that will turn it off when enough water has been given.

Another quick tip – Did you know that the best time to water is in the evening so that the water has a better chance to seep into the soil before the sun can burn it off.

The Garden

When it comes to the garden, a good soaking once or twice a week, depending on the type of flowers and plants you have, can usually sustain your flowerbeds and gardens. You can do this by hand or with a gentle sprinkler. You definitely don’t want to overwater your garden because doing so can breed disease and fungus among your plants. Just like with your lawn, you’ll want to water your garden in the evening to allow the water to seep in.

If give your lawn and garden the right amount of moisture you’ll be able to keep it looking green and healthy. Just think of how envious your neighbors will be!

Think About a ‘Green’ Spring – Organic Lawn Program

Well just because it is winter doesn’t mean we cannot dream for the spring. Here is a great article from our friend Ken LaVoie (www.lawnguru.net). Post your comments folks I would love to hear them.

Organic Lawn Program
Ken LaVoie – LawnGuru.net

The easiest way to explain organic lawn care, as it differs from traditional “chemical” lawn care, is that organics addresses the SOIL, whereas chemical addresses the PLANT. Starting in 2008, I gave my clients a choice of our “outsourced” chemical lawn treatment OR our self applicated, organic program. Our organic program consisted of aeration and ph enhancement first, then and organic fertilizer if warranted.

My research leads me to believe that aeration and ph adjustment will give you the biggest “bang for the buck,” dollar for dollar. If the soil ph is too low or high, the grass will not be able to “unlock” certain nutrients from the soil anyway, so much of your fertilizer application will go unused. Secondly, aeration allows air and oxygen to get into the soil, which promotes bacteria and nematode growth, which is what organics is really all about. Several of my clients received nothing but aeration and lime this year, and their lawns improved remarkably.

Our next step is to begin offering a “one time” application of compost or compost tea, which will add actual organic matter to the soil. Once the soil health becomes optimal, the lawn should become nearly self-sustaining; in other words, NO applications will be needed other than the occasional corrective liming, aeration, or addition of organic matter. This is literally all a lawn EVER needs once it gets used to “non” chemical life.

There has been quite a bit of news about corn gluten meal, or CGM. It is purported to have weed suppression properties if you put enough down, and your timing is right. There’s also growing evidence that much of the weed-prevention benefit comes from the thickening of the grass, which comes from organic production of nitrogen. All in all, I’d say it’s a an expensive route, and if you use it, it’s probably a good idea to alert your clients that the weed preventative control will be an added “surprise.”

Regardless of your approach, communication is key. Alert your clients that if their lawns are “used” to chemical lawn treatment, it will take 2 seasons to adjust the kinder, gentler organic approach, but the wait will be worth it, for the lawn and the environment.

As for pricing, for dry chemical spreading (like weed n’ feed), I charge $60 per 10,000 square feet with a $35 minimum. For lime, I simply double my cost—if I pay $4.50 per bag for pelletized lime, I charge $9 per bag with the same $35 minimum. So far, I’m finding that I make great money with aeration by simply charging my dry chemical price. I earn $100 per man-hour and I have time to aerate twice over each lawn. I use a tow-behind model that I paid $650 for, and so far it’s holding up nicely.

Ken LaVoie has 20 years of lawn and landscape experience. He attended both the University of Maine as well as Rhode Island College and resides in Winslow, Maine where he is a freelance writer as well as owner of both LaVoie’s Landscape Mgmt. Inc. and Central Maine Web. Please see www.LawnGuru.net and www.CentralMaineWeb.com for more information.

Fall Cleanup: Best Practices and Tips

The nights are getting cooler and the air has that refreshing crisp in it. It is the time for sweaters and light jackets to keep you warm. Once again the seasons are changing and trees are showing their beautiful array of fall colors. Autumn never ceases to amaze me with it spectacular colors that seem to go beyond an artistic pallet. It is a time of harvest and coming together to share the years hard work from our crops and gardens.

Autumn is a beautiful time of year and we should all enjoy it. However, there is still work to be done! A good fall cleanup is perhaps one of the most important steps in preparing your lawn and garden for the spring. In this article I will pass on some very important musts and some time saving tips so you can use and share with others.

Don’t leave the leaves

The leaves are a sight to see on the trees during their color change. But watching them fall to the ground may leave property owners feeling that there is a long road of work ahead of them. Not many people enjoy spending hours and hours of raking leaves and bagging them. But it is an important step in the fall cleanup process because once the snow flies, an unraked layer of leaves will get matted down over your lawn and smother it all winter long. This will result in dead patches and give rodents a cozy home to live in.

*Tip* Instead of waiting for all of the leaves to drop off your trees try mulching small amounts using your mulching lawn mower when you mow your lawn. Doing this weekly will make the work seem lighter when it is time to rake. Plus small amounts of mulched leaves will add nutrients to your soil making your lawn healthier.

Feed the Green

Your lawn is still using energy during the cool nights before winter. And what better way to show your lawn your appreciation for looking its best during the grueling summer then to feed it. Apply a slow release fertilizer to build back up its nutrients and prepare it for the long and cold winter. This is also a very good time to remove all weeds from your lawn as well to give a better start in the spring. Don’t add commercial fertilizer to any other garden plants (except bulbs) or you may spur growth too late in the season.

Compacted? Aerate!

Heavy traffic throughout the summer can cause soil to become compacted. Perforating your lawn with small holes helps reduce compaction and lets water, air and fertilizer get down to the soil, which strengthens the turfs root structure.

*Tip* For smaller yards, a manual aerating tool that removes plugs from the turf while you step should be just fine. If you’ve got a larger yard, consider renting a power aerator or calling your local lawn maintenance company.

Compost and Re-Use

Don’t get rid of all of your fallen leaves they make for attractive mulch in your garden. Collect leaves and put them through a mulching machine (if you don’t have one you can find them at most hardware stores for about $100 – $200) and add them to your garden. You can also use your push lawnmower by running over the leaves and bagging them. Not only does this provide a beautiful mulch but adds vital nutrients to your soil making your plants more vibrant.

*Tip* One way to turn autumn leaves into nutritious compost is to gather them in a big pile surrounded by chicken wire in a corner of yard where they can be left for a year or two to break down into rich crumbly goodness. Don’t compost any plants or leaves that look diseased. Throw them out. You will only contaminate next year’s gardens.

Water your trees?

Water any trees and shrubs that still have their leaves because they are more than likely dry from the past several months of drought (this year may be an exception to the rule). This is especially true of young trees planted less than three years ago and street trees, which endure extra punishment from traffic, pollution, and paving. Though your town may plant street trees in front of your house, it’s up to you to water them when rain is lacking. Leave a hose dripping by the trunk for several hours so the moisture can sink in.

Also, water your evergreens each week that there’s no rain. Rhododendrons and pine trees will continue to lose moisture from their leaves and needles all winter. So help the roots stock up on water now. Wrapping small evergreens with burlap will especially serve to protect them from browsing deer and from harsh winter winds. However, if your trees are near salted winter roads avoid wrapping your trees in burlap. The salt will soak into the burlap causing direct exposure to the host plant. In this case try making burlap screens instead.

*Tip* Don’t plant evergreens this late in the year, but feel free to plant deciduous trees and shrubs once they’ve dropped their leaves and gone dormant. Take advantage of late season sales at your local garden center.

Mushy Annuals

Once the frost hits, it is usually the end of the road for annuals. They can easily be removed by pulling them by the base of the stem. This is also a good opportunity to remove any weeds from your garden and cultivate the soil. You can compost all of the annuals you pulled out…but make sure to watch for diseased plants, just toss them into the trash.

Veggie Garden

Clean out your vegetable garden. Fruits and vegetables left in the garden can decompose all winter long, and provide comfy living for insect eggs. Gross? Not as gross as they’ll be in the spring…well at least you won’t have to mash your potatoes. Now’s the time to get rid of diseased plants, too, but keep them out of the compost pile so the problem doesn’t spread to the rest of your garden next year.

Spring is just around the Corner

Fall is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. But pay attention to the weather in your area; planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout before winter, and planting them too late can mean their roots don’t have enough time to develop before the ground freezes.

*Tip* Make sure to plant the bulb 2 – 2 1/2 times deeper than the size of the bulb. So if your bulb is a small 1 inch bulb, you would plant the bulb 2 to 2 1/2 inches deep. If your bulb is a larger 3 inch bulb, you will want to plant the bulb 6 to 7 1/2 inches deep.

Get ready for next spring

Give your tools and equipment some love. When it comes time to put away the backyard tools for the season, don’t just shove them into the corner. Spend a few minutes wiping them down and removing debris and dirt, then apply a light layer of oil to keep them from rusting over the winter. That way they’ll be all set to go again come spring. And as for your lawnmower, if you are not going to drain the fuel from the tank and carburetor make sure to add some fuel stabilizer to the gas. Doing this will prevent your gas from going bad and keep the carburetor in good working order.

Fall is here and by applying some of these best practices you’ll be in great shape for the spring…just as long as we make it through the winter.

From my lawn to yours,

Richard Murphy

Eco-Friendly Lawn and Garden Tips

Spring is a great time to explore how we can be greener in all areas of our lives, including our lawns and gardens. Making simple, but different choices with lawn care products can make a positive impact on the environment and the way we live. Here are some easy tips on how you can become more eco-friendly this spring.

* Use mulch to help conserve water outdoors and improve your drainage. One of the best eco-friendly products is Vigoro Rubber Mulch, an innovative, non-toxic mulch made from 100 percent recycled rubber tires. The mulch maintains its color for 12 years, so there’s no need for annual mulching.

* Look into switching out fertilizers and pesticides that can be hazardous to your health and the environment. Dynamite Organic All Purpose Plant Food is the only OMRI-certified (Organic Material Review Institute) plant food guaranteed to last up to three months, reducing the need for frequent applications. Scotts® Organic Choice Soils & Fertilizers offer a few other options. Scotts® Organic Choice Potting Mix is made of sphagnum peat moss and composted bark fines, and the natural ingredients deliver twice the growth of ordinary potting soil. Scotts® Organic Choice Lawn Food is made from chicken litter and feather meal nutrients, so it is 100 percent safe for the home.

* Avoid that stack of plastic garden pots we seem to end up with each spring and try using potless plants. The new PotLess Plants in Biodegradable Containers allow you to plant the container right in the ground. The container decomposes as the plant grows.

* Finally, be smart about waste disposal. A lot of retailers are offering lawn bags to help clean up your yard mess. This year, try Biodegradable Lawn & Refuse Bags that ensure lawn clippings and yard waste will decompose and not create more trash for the environment.

These products can all be found at your local The Home Depot store.

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