Some of the Simplest Ideas Make the Greatest Products

Hello, I’m the creator of a new lawn product called “Sprinkler Buddy”. As a lawn care professional, it’s only fitting that I have been blessed with one of the simplest ideas yet and most effective lawn sprinkler head indicator/guard found on the market today.

Since the invention of the underground sprinkler system, we have dealt with accidental damage to our sprinkler heads caused from the lawn mower tires, etc… during routine lawn maintenance.

The Sprinkler Buddy idea came to me out of a necessity. I realized the only way I was going to be able to avoid running sprinkler heads over with my heavy commercial mower tires, etc…was to know exactly where the sprinkler heads were. I had to be able to see them as I approached them on my mower. That is exactly what the Sprinkler Buddy does; it keeps the sprinkler heads visible. By doing so, this allows homeowners and lawn care professionals that work around sprinkler heads the time they need to see and avoid them by either mowing around them or straddling them with the mower tires. Once both the sprinkler head and the Sprinkler Buddy have both been installed properly, one can mow right over them without running them over with the mower tires because now they are visible.

The patented insert design of the Sprinkler Buddy, combined with the flexible material which is used in making this product is what makes this such an effective product. With all the different sprinkler head manufactures and different models each manufacture makes, it has been impossible to get an indicator/guard that fits them all perfectly.

Until Now!

The Sprinkler Buddy allows the user to determine the perfect fit unlike all other similar products found on the market today. Others similar products have a fixed or predetermined insert which claim that it’s a one size fits all. That’s like saying an adult’s coat sized XXL is a one size fits all since a child can put it on as well.

The Sprinkler Buddy is the only product that allows the user to obtain the fit they need when, where, and how they need it in four easy steps: Measure, Cut, Insert, and Install.

To learn more about the Sprinkler Buddy, visit us @ http://www.sprinklerbuddy.com

Contact us via e-mail at our website as well if you should have any further questions.

I would also like to thank this blog for allowing RyRo, Inc. to be a guest and share our new product “Sprinkler Buddy” with its viewers.

Thank You!

Leo D. Gauthier, III, Pres.

Stepping on a carpet of fresh green grass, not everybody notices how beautiful a lawn is and can be; yet a poorly maintained lawn will easily invite criticisms and annoyance. When the grass is too high, walking will be hard and pests will be invited in. Accidents can happen, especially when there are kids who always come out and play. When the grass loses its green, the garden is stripped of lush and gives off an atmosphere of drought and melancholy.

Yet a beautiful and well-maintained lawn gives a color of life to any garden. You can walk in anytime you need some peaceful time to think. Kids have a soft carpet of grass to run and play on. You have a good and fresh place to exercise, play, do yoga, have a picnic or simply sit or lie down—there, out in the open, under the fluffy clouds or the twinkling stars.

For all its worth, keeping a well-maintained lawn is important, not just for the joy, comfort and beauty that it brings, but also for safety. Here are some tips to get you started:

Feeding your lawn

The balanced diet

There are different types of lawn food and fertilizers: organic, chemical, liquid and dry. Whatever you choose, just remember to keep the perfect balance of the N:P:K ratio. Check the lawn food label. Nitrogen (N) makes the leaves glow green, Phosphorous (P) strengthens the roots and makes them grow deep and have a good grip of the ground, and Potassium (K) makes the grass more resistant to diseases and drought. Choose a fertilizer that enhances growth in all three areas. A good pick is an “all rounder” with 11N, 4P and 8K.

Remember the balance. Too much nitrogen will make the soil more acidic and earthworms, which aid in making your soil healthy, will leave or die. If you opt to use sulphate of ammonia, make sure to give your lawn organic fertilizer in the next feeding.

How to feed your lawn

1. Aerate the soil if it is too compacted. Use a garden fork to create space for better fertilizer and water penetration.
2. Remove weeds, especially those with large leaves. They will compete with your grass for nutrients. Patch holes with lawn dressing or sand. If weeds are too hard to remove, use lawn food with herbicide. Make sure to choose one that won’t kill your grass too.
3. Plan your route to make sure you don’t miss or double fertilizer application in an area. You can either divide your lawn into rows or quarters. Use strings or the hose as guide.
4. Use a spreader for powdered or granular fertilizer. Plastic pots with drainage holes make good alternatives.
5. Water properly. Depending on the fertilizer you use, you have to water your lawn either before or after the application of food. Always follow instructions.

Preparing for season changes

Especially in areas with four seasons, extreme weather conditions can affect the health of your lawn. Summers can be too hot and winters can be too cold for them to withstand. For that, it is best to “feed” your lawn during friendlier seasons.

Nourish your lawn during spring to prepare for summer. Choose organic lawn food with natural products such as seaweed, animal manure, fish and rock minerals. These will make your lawn more resistant to diseases, drought, patchiness, moss and weeds. There are also granular fertilizers and lawn food that are slow release, which means that they release nutrients slowly to allow the lawn to survive through the drier and warmer months.

You can also feed them fertilizer that is higher in Nitrogen (N) during spring, when leaf growth is at its best. In autumn, you can feed food with more Potassium (K) to toughen the roots in preparation for winter.

Lawn Maintenance

1. Remove thatch. Thatch refers to a layer of dead grass that collects on top of the soil and prevent moisture and air from reaching the roots. If you walk through your lawn and feel something spongy, it’s probably a thatch buildup. Remove it with a de-thatcher or scarifier.

2. Aerate your soil. Lawns where people often walk on or where cars are usually parked are prone to having compacted soil. Soil pores are clogged and water, food and air can’t get in. Use tools such as garden forks to loosen the soil again. Some hire corers for bigger lawns. Do this at least once a year.

3. Keep dressing your lawn. Over time, there can be bald or damaged parts on your lawn. Use sandy loam or soil mix to patch them up.

4. Always check your soil’s acidity with a pH kit. The ideal acidity is around 6-6.5. The pH meter measures 1-14, 1 being most acidic. Apply treatments as necessary.

5. Mow your lawn properly and regularly. The frequency depends on the rate of your lawn’s growth. Just remember not to remove more than 1/3 of its height. Choose quality lawn mowers and make sure all lawn mower parts are properly installed. Always keep the blades high to avoid scalping the grass.

6. Water properly. Check with your local water authority for policies and restrictions in your area. You can use a hose, sprinkler system or watering can, depending on the size of your lawn and area regulations.

Becoming an expert at lawn maintenance takes time, effort, experience and passion. Even beginners and moderate gardeners like you can eventually become experts as long as you keep learning, even from your own mistakes. The accumulated lessons from your experiences in maintaining and caring for your lawn will eventually shape a good gardener out of you. And with your growth as a gardener is the growth of your lawn with flaunting health and beauty.

Author Bio:

Penelope Carrington is a Marketing Consultant for J. Thomas, a leading supplier in lawn mower parts, gardening tools, and landscaping materials.

Another Good Read Organic Lawn Care – Naturally

All-natural Product Kills Lawn Weeds in Mere Hours

Gardens Alive!(r) introduces Iron X(tm) Selective Weed Killer for Lawns
<http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX> , the first all-natural weed control
to kill broadleaf weeds without harming lawns. It’s the fastest-acting
weed control product on the market, and it’s only available from Gardens
Alive!. <http://www.gardensalive.com/>  Iron X won a 2010 Green Thumb
Award for its innovative solution to weed control.

Although iron has been used as a fertilizer for years, Iron X is one of
the first products to use chelated iron as an active ingredient for weed
control in residential applications. Not only is it all-natural and
fast-acting, but Iron X is the first all-natural weed control to target
and kill broadleaf weeds without harming lawns.

Fast-acting and All-natural Weed control

Unlike other weed control products that require several applications,
perfect timing and a long wait before they take effect, Gardens
Alive!(r) brings you and your readers the perfect product to quickly and
easily combat broadleaf lawn weeds without using potentially harmful
chemicals.

Iron X kills lawn weeds faster than any other broadleaf weed control on
the market. It works by inundating weeds with iron. The form of iron in
Iron X is absorbed much more easily by broadleaf plants such as weeds
than it is grasses, so the weeds are killed almost instantly and grass
remains unharmed.

Within hours of application, broadleaf weeds turn black and begin to
die. Other similar products require 24 hours or more to take effect and
use potentially harmful chemicals as active ingredients. All-natural
Iron X gets the job done faster and without harsh chemicals.

Iron X’s active ingredient is chelated iron-at the most basic level, a
liquid compound of iron, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. All-natural Iron
X <http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  does not harm people, wildlife or
the environment. It’s so innocuous that people and pets can enter
treated areas as soon as the spray dries!

Easiest Weed Control to Use

Lawn weed control doesn’t get any easier than this. Simply mix the Iron
X <http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  concentrate with water and apply
to your entire lawn with a hose-end sprayer. Iron X
<http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  targets only the weeds and leaves
grass unaffected (although you’ll want to be careful not to accidentally
spray trees, shrubs or other plants). You can also use Iron X
<http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  to spot treat lawn weeds with a
hand-held sprayer.

Let the Weed Wars begin!

Use Iron X <http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  to kill: dandelions,
English Daisy, False Dandelion, White Clover, Black Medic, Bull Thistle,
common chickweed, creeping buttercup, Persian speedwell, slender
speedwell, broadleaf plaintain, dovefoot geranium, healall, shepherd’s
purse, silverweek cinquefoil, wild chamomile, moss, algae, liverworts,
lichens and more.

2010 Green Thumb Award Winner

Iron X <http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  is one of just 5 new
products and 5 new plant varieties to win a Green Thumb Award in 2010.
Gardens Alive! is the only company to win multiple awards in 2010-its
Critter Chaser XR(tm) Deer and Rabbit Repellent Strips
<http://www.gardensalive.com/IronX>  also won a Green Thumb Award in the
product category. Sponsored by the Mailorder Gardening Association
(MGA), the world’s largest nonprofit association of companies that sell
products directly to consumers, the award-winning products were selected
by an independent panel of garden writers and editors for their
uniqueness, technological innovation, ability to solve a gardening
problem or provide a gardening opportunity and potential appeal to
gardeners.

For more on Iron X Selective Weed Killer for Lawns, send your readers to
www.GardensAlive.com/IronX or contact us at publicity@gardensalive.com.

Gardens Alive!

Founded in Sunman, Indiana, in 1984 by founder and owner, Niles Kinerk
Gardens Alive! is a mail order and online gardening supply company that
sells all-natural and environmentally safe fertilizers and biological
control of garden pests. Based in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, Gardens Alive!
distributes catalogs throughout the nation, and maintains a considerable
web presence.

Gardens Alive! Press Contact:

Dane Coleman, 937-667-2491 Ext. 3509, publicity@gardensalive.com

Gardens Alive, Inc., 5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg, Indiana 47025

Dane Coleman

Gardening Publicist

publicity@gardensalive.com

By Kris Kiser, Executive Vice President at the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is positioned to protect water in all forms, from ground water to underground sources to water coming out of the public’s tap. WaterSense, a partnership program sponsored by the EPA, was set up to work with local water utilities, product manufacturers, and retailers on the use of water-efficient products and practices among consumer and commercial audiences. Reinforced through a ‘WaterSense’ label, WaterSense, according to the EPA, “helps consumers easily identify water-efficient products in the marketplace.” WaterSense engineering standards for low flow toilets, shower heads, irrigation equipment and other engineered products are practical and measurable.

However, a disturbing development has taken place in the WaterSense program that threatens to undermine the very water quality standards the agency was established to protect and potentially undermine the well-deserved value of the WaterSense label.

Under its WaterSense new home specification, EPA developed and released draft specifications for new home construction. Home builders that follow the specs will be able to market a ‘WaterSense ®’ home. The draft specs include restrictions on the amount of turf grass that can be used on a home site. These specs are intended for implementation nationwide, border to border, coast to coast – with no exceptions. These specs do not take into account the fact that homes built in Seattle versus Oklahoma City are erected in vastly different climates.

Under current specs, no allowances for regional differences in climate or turf species exists; new home sites will be limited to 40 percent grass use on the site’s “landscape-able” area. It is a one size-fits-all specification. This means the amount of grass that can be planted on a Portland, OR home site would be the same as a home in Las Vegas. Imagine a Tucson desert landscape in Seattle and Boston neighborhoods. And, this also means, extreme desert locales would be allowed 40 percent turfgrass use on a home lot where it should not be used, requiring massive watering.

Our country is simply too large and complex, climate-wise, with multiple climatic zones for a single-national government standard on grass use for home lawns.

Yes, water should be used in a responsible manner. Lush green lawns of Kentucky Bluegrass may not be appropriate for desert landscapes and the landscape industry should work toward best management practices that support maximizing environmental benefits in a conscientious manner. The key is to plant the right plant in the right place to maximize its environmental, lifestyle and economic benefits, not eliminate them.

But, with these specs, the EPA singles out turfgrass as environmentally harmful, unfairly labeling it as a “water hog,” despite the fact that drought resistant turfgrasses are widely available in addition to the existence of large areas of the country that do not have rainfall or water availability issues.

Further, the myriad environmental benefits of turfgrass are ignored under these specs—from its well-documented carbon absorption and sequestering properties to superior water filtration, from its runoff and erosion control capabilities to dust and particulate matter capture properties, from its ability to combat the heat island effect to cooling our urban environments. These benefits –along with significant lifestyle benefits associated with a home’s yard for family use and pets — are somehow completely disregarded.

Yet, despite these facts, the EPA continues to declare war on turfgrass through such erroneous specs as the current WaterSense program promotes — even recommending mulch and artificial turf over grass green space. (Mulch and plastic grass do not filter air, remove water pollutants, produce oxygen or sequester carbon dioxide. How is this better?)

Plants are real, living things not engineered or manufactured to a specific standard. But, rather, they are ever changing and adaptable to variable climatic conditions. And, managed responsibly, have enormous benefits.

EPA has held several public hearings on its WaterSense new home specification, where these landscape criteria have come under attack as being arbitrary, non-responsive to local and regional variances and not based on science. Turfgrass utilization has not been evaluated in a holistic environmental assessment. Yet, while the agency has altered the draft specification to reflect other industries’ concerns, the turf restrictions remain in place. EPA plans to finalize its WaterSense new home specification in November of this year.

If these criteria are adopted in their current form, they will have adverse environmental, lifestyle and economic consequences, and may actually create scenarios that use more water (not less) and severely depress jobs in a host of businesses involved in the $150 billion a year lawn and landscape industry.

In its current form, the landscape criteria of the EPA’s WaterSense program, which limits the amount of turfgrass on every home built in the United States, is simply bad public policy that will produce negative outcomes for our environment and will eliminate the green jobs for which the current Administration has been vocally supportive.

Kris Kiser is the Executive Vice President of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI). OPEI is the international trade association representing the $15 billion landscape, forestry, utility and lawn and garden equipment manufacturing industry.

What you can do about EPA’s “WaterSense” Program

OPEI, the National Turfgrass Federation, and other interested parties have submitted comments to EPA, have testified at hearings, and have met repeatedly with agency staff on our concerns. These actions, while necessary, have not been productive with the agency.

However, the numerous inquiries the agency has received from Members of Congress about the specification’s draconian treatment of turf – the singling out, in effect, of this one type of groundcover — has earned the attention of EPA. These inquiries were prompted by letters and phone calls from constituents whose livelihood depends either directly or indirectly on turfgrass or from those who seek to maintain the lifestyle and holistic environmental benefits associated with home lawns.

We urgently recommend all interested parties to write to their congressional representative and Senators asking him or her to raise these issues with EPA and ask that the agency set aside the WaterSense outdoor landscape criteria for now, evaluate the science, and work with stakeholders to improve the product. Contact information for your representatives can be found at www.senate.gov and www.house.gov or you can contact Kris Kiser at OPEI at kkiser@opei.org.

Remind lawmakers that when properly managed and maintained, the benefits of turfgrass are multifold:

Captures Water Runoff and Dust

• Turfgrass does an excellent job of capturing water runoff and lessening dust and particulate matter pollution, versus alternatives such as hard surfaces, mulched areas and impervious or bare surfaces.

According to a Council for Agricultural Science and Technology (CAST) 2006 Publication, turfgrass decreases dust emissions and for controlling soil erosion, a live, functioning grass cover, including urban lawns, is a cost-effective option, since a grass root system is one of the most effective in soil stabilization because of the fibrous, dense character of its roots.

Lessens Heat Island Effect

• Turfgrass lessens the “heat island” effect, especially in urban areas. Urban areas generally have higher temperatures than surrounding rural areas, well known as the urban “heat island” effect. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) states that “the annual mean air temperature of a city with 1 million people or more can be 1.8–5.4°F (1–3°C) warmer than its surroundings. In the evening, the difference can be as high as 22°F (12°C).”

Captures, Stores Carbon in Roots

• Properly managed turf areas are significant carbon sinks. When kept in a growing state, carbon sequestration in turf areas can range anywhere from four to seven times the carbon emissions, according to a report, Technical Assessment of the Carbon Sequestration Potential of Managed Turfgrass in the United States by Dr. Ranajit (Ron) Sahu. See study at: http://www.opei.org/ht/d/sp/i/1428/pid/1428

Boosts the Oxygen Footprint

• Turfgrass can boost your oxygen footprint. Compared to bare ground, non-green areas, and lawn substitutes, such as painted concrete or even artificial turf, actual grass and green areas generate oxygen. For example, a turf area 50′ x 50′ produces enough oxygen to meet the everyday needs of a family of four and each acre of grass produces enough oxygen for 64 people a day. (Source: http://www.turfgrasssod.org/lawninstitute/environmental_benefits.htm)

Spring-Green Lawn Care Offers Tips to Keep Landscapes Lush As Temperatures Climb

(Plainfield, IL)—Ever wonder how your neighbors achieve thick, vibrant lawns year after year or how they keep their lawns and landscapes healthy as temperatures continue to rise throughout the summer months? The answer is simple: They work at it!
“This is the time of year Chicagoans are enjoying their outdoor spaces the most so it’s necessary these areas are in tip-top shape,” says Harold Enger, director of education for Spring-Green Lawn Care, which has been servicing communities throughout Greater Chicagoland for 32 years. “Keeping lawns healthy now will also make preparation for the cooler weather much easier when the time comes.” Here are some tips from Enger to keep lawns and trees looking their best from the beginning of the summer to the end.

1. Address Pests: One single insect can lay thousands of eggs, ensuring a continual attack on your lawn and landscape but if you know where to look for these pests, their impact can be minimal. For your landscape plants, Enger says to start by looking at the leaves or needles and keep an eye out for chew marks, feeding trails or curled leaves, as all can be indicators of insect activity. Insects that bore into the trunk or develop in the tips of pine trees, however, can be harder to locate. If you see a D-shaped hole in the trunk of a tree, that is an indication of a flat-head borer like the Emerald Ash Borer, which is responsible for killing tens of thousands of Ash trees in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois and putting many other states at risk for sporadic outbreaks. Enger says to contact a lawn care professional or county extension office immediately if your Ash is beginning to die at the top, as it could be an indication of Emerald Ash Borer infestation. As for lawns, most surface-feeding insects will hide in the thatch layer during the day so you need to look for signs of their activity versus the actual insects. The most obvious sign of surface-feeding insects is turf that is thinning or losing color. If you notice pencil-sized holes, it’s possible your lawn has Sod Webworm. Enger says lawn care professionals like those at Spring-Green Lawn Care are trained to inspect and treat lawns for insect damage.

2. Mow, Mow, Mow Your Lawn: Mowing is a simple process but it has more impact on the health and growth of a lawn than any other regular maintenance activity. Start by setting your mower deck to 2½ to 3½ inches – Enger says a soda can on its side should be able to slide under the mower at this height – and mow your lawn when it needs it as opposed to keeping to a weekly schedule. Understand turfgrass grows slower in the summer and infrequent rainfall can also play a factor in sluggish growth so running a mower across drought-stressed turf can hurt instead of help. Also since mowing opens up the tip of the grass blade, it’s best to mow early in the morning after the dew has dried or in the evening when temperatures have dropped instead of in the heat of the day when the most moisture can be lost. Lastly, Enger says that because grass is between 80- and 90-percent water, clippings and nutrients can be recycled back into the lawn, providing beneficial organic material for future growth.

3. Watch Your Water: When Mother Nature doesn’t supply enough rainfall, supplemental watering is integral to maintaining a healthy lawn but Enger says to remember too much water can be wasteful and even detrimental to the lawn’s lifespan and too little water can lead to turf that’s more susceptible to disease, insect and weed infestations. A well-maintained lawn needs one inch of water per week to stay green and growing so instead of setting your automatic sprinkler system so come up every day to water each zone for 10 minutes, set the system to fun only every three to four days for a longer time per zone – a practice which prevents roots from growing closer to the surface. Enger says you can also use hoses and a pulsating portable sprinkler, leaving it in one position for 30 to 60 minutes before moving it to another location. Early morning watering is best, as watering in the evening can increase the likelihood of disease development because the lawn will remain cool, dark and moist for an extended period of time. If you are unable to water due to watering restrictions, your lawn will go dormant, the turf’s natural defense mechanism in which it will shut down all non-essential parts, like top growth, to keep the crown alive. Turf is a remarkable plant and most varieties can survive for four weeks or more without irrigation of any type, says Enger; if the drought is severe enough, some lawn renovation may be necessary once it starts to rain or you are able to water again.

#####

About Spring-Green Lawn Care
Spring-Green Lawn Care has been delivering organic and traditional lawn and tree care services for 32 years. Spring-Green is one of the founding members of the Professional Lawn Care Association of America (PLCAA) and a partner of GreenCare For Troops, a program that provides free lawn and landscape services to military families nationwide. Spring-Green currently has 120 franchises operating in 25 states and is aggressively expanding to new markets across the country. For more information, visit www.spring-green.com

I try and educate as many people as I can about this topic. It is probably one of the most important items in this list to pay attention to. To maintain a healthy lawn you need to make sure it gets adequate hydration. Your lawn needs 2 inches of water per week. This may increase to 2 inches of water twice per week in hotter climates or drought seasons. By getting down into the soil 2 inches you’ll promote great root structure for your turf (I may refer to your lawn as turf from time to time). By just dampening the soil or watering your lawn everyday a little bit will only allow the water to just penetrate the soil. This will make for a very shallow root system…exactly what you do not want. Shallow root systems will be susceptible to drought die back, lawn tearing (from your mower or heavy traffic) and insects will be able to mow through your lawn in record timing.

‘Well Richard, when is the best time to water your lawn’

Just before dawn is the best time to water your lawn. This gives your lawn plenty of time to dry during the day. You want to maximize the amount of water consistent with good growth but with the least amount of surface wetness.

How do you know if you watered 2 inches?

Well the easiest way to tell (not the most accurate, but it is a good way to get an idea) is to lay out a few containers and turn on your irrigation / sprinklers. When you have about 2 inches of water in the container, then you could assume that you have watered 2 inches into the ground. You can also get a water meter that will attach to you water tap and you can monitor the amount of water that goes out. Or perhaps the best and most accurate way is to take soil sample plugs in a few different locations and visually see how far down the moisture is going.

Whats wrong with watering everyday?

Well not only is it a waste of water and money, another good reason too much water can be harmful to your lawn is that it creates a perfect environment for pests and diseases. A healthy lawn needs to become dry between waterings as well. Turf that is allowed to dry will send roots further down into the soil to find new moisture.

Now of course there are exceptions to everything. Golf courses water just about everyday (weather permitting), but they use a very different soil structure then your lawn at home. If your soil for your lawn is compacted you may experience water runoff or pooling. Therefore, your lawn will not absorb the water it will most likely evaporate. In this case it is time to aerate…but that is a different article.

Cheers,

Irrigation and How to Conserve Water
By: Lou Manfredini

In today’s changing world, many of us are beginning to think more about how much water we use on a daily basis. I’m Lou Manfredini, Ace’s “Helpful Hardware Man” and here are some tips on how to conserve water in your lawn and garden.

The Lawn

I think the biggest mistake that most people make is overwatering. Overwatering not only wastes water, but it is bad for your plants. It really depends on where you live and the weather, but the general rule is to give anywhere from 1 to 2 inches of water a week to your lawn. You can measure the amount of water you give by the length of time that you run a sprinkler. Most sprinklers will give you that conversion information on their packaging, but you can also attach a water timer to your spigot that will turn it off when enough water has been given.

Another quick tip – Did you know that the best time to water is in the evening so that the water has a better chance to seep into the soil before the sun can burn it off.

The Garden

When it comes to the garden, a good soaking once or twice a week, depending on the type of flowers and plants you have, can usually sustain your flowerbeds and gardens. You can do this by hand or with a gentle sprinkler. You definitely don’t want to overwater your garden because doing so can breed disease and fungus among your plants. Just like with your lawn, you’ll want to water your garden in the evening to allow the water to seep in.

If give your lawn and garden the right amount of moisture you’ll be able to keep it looking green and healthy. Just think of how envious your neighbors will be!

Well just because it is winter doesn’t mean we cannot dream for the spring. Here is a great article from our friend Ken LaVoie (www.lawnguru.net). Post your comments folks I would love to hear them.

Organic Lawn Program
Ken LaVoie – LawnGuru.net

The easiest way to explain organic lawn care, as it differs from traditional “chemical” lawn care, is that organics addresses the SOIL, whereas chemical addresses the PLANT. Starting in 2008, I gave my clients a choice of our “outsourced” chemical lawn treatment OR our self applicated, organic program. Our organic program consisted of aeration and ph enhancement first, then and organic fertilizer if warranted.

My research leads me to believe that aeration and ph adjustment will give you the biggest “bang for the buck,” dollar for dollar. If the soil ph is too low or high, the grass will not be able to “unlock” certain nutrients from the soil anyway, so much of your fertilizer application will go unused. Secondly, aeration allows air and oxygen to get into the soil, which promotes bacteria and nematode growth, which is what organics is really all about. Several of my clients received nothing but aeration and lime this year, and their lawns improved remarkably.

Our next step is to begin offering a “one time” application of compost or compost tea, which will add actual organic matter to the soil. Once the soil health becomes optimal, the lawn should become nearly self-sustaining; in other words, NO applications will be needed other than the occasional corrective liming, aeration, or addition of organic matter. This is literally all a lawn EVER needs once it gets used to “non” chemical life.

There has been quite a bit of news about corn gluten meal, or CGM. It is purported to have weed suppression properties if you put enough down, and your timing is right. There’s also growing evidence that much of the weed-prevention benefit comes from the thickening of the grass, which comes from organic production of nitrogen. All in all, I’d say it’s a an expensive route, and if you use it, it’s probably a good idea to alert your clients that the weed preventative control will be an added “surprise.”

Regardless of your approach, communication is key. Alert your clients that if their lawns are “used” to chemical lawn treatment, it will take 2 seasons to adjust the kinder, gentler organic approach, but the wait will be worth it, for the lawn and the environment.

As for pricing, for dry chemical spreading (like weed n’ feed), I charge $60 per 10,000 square feet with a $35 minimum. For lime, I simply double my cost—if I pay $4.50 per bag for pelletized lime, I charge $9 per bag with the same $35 minimum. So far, I’m finding that I make great money with aeration by simply charging my dry chemical price. I earn $100 per man-hour and I have time to aerate twice over each lawn. I use a tow-behind model that I paid $650 for, and so far it’s holding up nicely.

Ken LaVoie has 20 years of lawn and landscape experience. He attended both the University of Maine as well as Rhode Island College and resides in Winslow, Maine where he is a freelance writer as well as owner of both LaVoie’s Landscape Mgmt. Inc. and Central Maine Web. Please see www.LawnGuru.net and www.CentralMaineWeb.com for more information.

The nights are getting cooler and the air has that refreshing crisp in it. It is the time for sweaters and light jackets to keep you warm. Once again the seasons are changing and trees are showing their beautiful array of fall colors. Autumn never ceases to amaze me with it spectacular colors that seem to go beyond an artistic pallet. It is a time of harvest and coming together to share the years hard work from our crops and gardens.

Autumn is a beautiful time of year and we should all enjoy it. However, there is still work to be done! A good fall cleanup is perhaps one of the most important steps in preparing your lawn and garden for the spring. In this article I will pass on some very important musts and some time saving tips so you can use and share with others.

Don’t leave the leaves

The leaves are a sight to see on the trees during their color change. But watching them fall to the ground may leave property owners feeling that there is a long road of work ahead of them. Not many people enjoy spending hours and hours of raking leaves and bagging them. But it is an important step in the fall cleanup process because once the snow flies, an unraked layer of leaves will get matted down over your lawn and smother it all winter long. This will result in dead patches and give rodents a cozy home to live in.

*Tip* Instead of waiting for all of the leaves to drop off your trees try mulching small amounts using your mulching lawn mower when you mow your lawn. Doing this weekly will make the work seem lighter when it is time to rake. Plus small amounts of mulched leaves will add nutrients to your soil making your lawn healthier.

Feed the Green

Your lawn is still using energy during the cool nights before winter. And what better way to show your lawn your appreciation for looking its best during the grueling summer then to feed it. Apply a slow release fertilizer to build back up its nutrients and prepare it for the long and cold winter. This is also a very good time to remove all weeds from your lawn as well to give a better start in the spring. Don’t add commercial fertilizer to any other garden plants (except bulbs) or you may spur growth too late in the season.

Compacted? Aerate!

Heavy traffic throughout the summer can cause soil to become compacted. Perforating your lawn with small holes helps reduce compaction and lets water, air and fertilizer get down to the soil, which strengthens the turfs root structure.

*Tip* For smaller yards, a manual aerating tool that removes plugs from the turf while you step should be just fine. If you’ve got a larger yard, consider renting a power aerator or calling your local lawn maintenance company.

Compost and Re-Use

Don’t get rid of all of your fallen leaves they make for attractive mulch in your garden. Collect leaves and put them through a mulching machine (if you don’t have one you can find them at most hardware stores for about $100 – $200) and add them to your garden. You can also use your push lawnmower by running over the leaves and bagging them. Not only does this provide a beautiful mulch but adds vital nutrients to your soil making your plants more vibrant.

*Tip* One way to turn autumn leaves into nutritious compost is to gather them in a big pile surrounded by chicken wire in a corner of yard where they can be left for a year or two to break down into rich crumbly goodness. Don’t compost any plants or leaves that look diseased. Throw them out. You will only contaminate next year’s gardens.

Water your trees?

Water any trees and shrubs that still have their leaves because they are more than likely dry from the past several months of drought (this year may be an exception to the rule). This is especially true of young trees planted less than three years ago and street trees, which endure extra punishment from traffic, pollution, and paving. Though your town may plant street trees in front of your house, it’s up to you to water them when rain is lacking. Leave a hose dripping by the trunk for several hours so the moisture can sink in.

Also, water your evergreens each week that there’s no rain. Rhododendrons and pine trees will continue to lose moisture from their leaves and needles all winter. So help the roots stock up on water now. Wrapping small evergreens with burlap will especially serve to protect them from browsing deer and from harsh winter winds. However, if your trees are near salted winter roads avoid wrapping your trees in burlap. The salt will soak into the burlap causing direct exposure to the host plant. In this case try making burlap screens instead.

*Tip* Don’t plant evergreens this late in the year, but feel free to plant deciduous trees and shrubs once they’ve dropped their leaves and gone dormant. Take advantage of late season sales at your local garden center.

Mushy Annuals

Once the frost hits, it is usually the end of the road for annuals. They can easily be removed by pulling them by the base of the stem. This is also a good opportunity to remove any weeds from your garden and cultivate the soil. You can compost all of the annuals you pulled out…but make sure to watch for diseased plants, just toss them into the trash.

Veggie Garden

Clean out your vegetable garden. Fruits and vegetables left in the garden can decompose all winter long, and provide comfy living for insect eggs. Gross? Not as gross as they’ll be in the spring…well at least you won’t have to mash your potatoes. Now’s the time to get rid of diseased plants, too, but keep them out of the compost pile so the problem doesn’t spread to the rest of your garden next year.

Spring is just around the Corner

Fall is the perfect time to plant spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. But pay attention to the weather in your area; planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout before winter, and planting them too late can mean their roots don’t have enough time to develop before the ground freezes.

*Tip* Make sure to plant the bulb 2 – 2 1/2 times deeper than the size of the bulb. So if your bulb is a small 1 inch bulb, you would plant the bulb 2 to 2 1/2 inches deep. If your bulb is a larger 3 inch bulb, you will want to plant the bulb 6 to 7 1/2 inches deep.

Get ready for next spring

Give your tools and equipment some love. When it comes time to put away the backyard tools for the season, don’t just shove them into the corner. Spend a few minutes wiping them down and removing debris and dirt, then apply a light layer of oil to keep them from rusting over the winter. That way they’ll be all set to go again come spring. And as for your lawnmower, if you are not going to drain the fuel from the tank and carburetor make sure to add some fuel stabilizer to the gas. Doing this will prevent your gas from going bad and keep the carburetor in good working order.

Fall is here and by applying some of these best practices you’ll be in great shape for the spring…just as long as we make it through the winter.

From my lawn to yours,

Richard Murphy

Spring is a great time to explore how we can be greener in all areas of our lives, including our lawns and gardens. Making simple, but different choices with lawn care products can make a positive impact on the environment and the way we live. Here are some easy tips on how you can become more eco-friendly this spring.

* Use mulch to help conserve water outdoors and improve your drainage. One of the best eco-friendly products is Vigoro Rubber Mulch, an innovative, non-toxic mulch made from 100 percent recycled rubber tires. The mulch maintains its color for 12 years, so there’s no need for annual mulching.

* Look into switching out fertilizers and pesticides that can be hazardous to your health and the environment. Dynamite Organic All Purpose Plant Food is the only OMRI-certified (Organic Material Review Institute) plant food guaranteed to last up to three months, reducing the need for frequent applications. Scotts® Organic Choice Soils & Fertilizers offer a few other options. Scotts® Organic Choice Potting Mix is made of sphagnum peat moss and composted bark fines, and the natural ingredients deliver twice the growth of ordinary potting soil. Scotts® Organic Choice Lawn Food is made from chicken litter and feather meal nutrients, so it is 100 percent safe for the home.

* Avoid that stack of plastic garden pots we seem to end up with each spring and try using potless plants. The new PotLess Plants in Biodegradable Containers allow you to plant the container right in the ground. The container decomposes as the plant grows.

* Finally, be smart about waste disposal. A lot of retailers are offering lawn bags to help clean up your yard mess. This year, try Biodegradable Lawn & Refuse Bags that ensure lawn clippings and yard waste will decompose and not create more trash for the environment.

These products can all be found at your local The Home Depot store.